Reviewed · THE ROYAL MILE
Curious Tales of the Royal Mile – Private Walking Tour
Edinburgh’s Old Town can feel like a postcard, until you hear the weird stuff underneath it. This private Royal Mile walk turns the city into a storybook, with tales of arrests, swamp rescues, gang fights, and famous enemies who may not be what you expect. Your guide, local doctor Moray Grigor, stitches it all together into a funny, walking-at-a-human-pace kind of history lesson.
I love two things most here. First, the tour leans into back courts and hidden closes, so you get out of the big-street crowd feel and into the lanes where these stories actually make sense. Second, Moray is the kind of host who keeps everyone moving, even families, with a relaxed rhythm and plenty of laughs. The main drawback to consider is that it’s an outdoor walking tour, and it needs decent weather.
Key highlights you will feel right away
- Moray Grigor’s storytelling mixes humor and local knowledge so the city sticks in your head
- A private group means you can set your pace and ask questions without herding
- Stories collected by Robert Chambers give the tour a classic, old-Edinburgh voice
- Alleys, back courts, and closes make the Royal Mile feel three-dimensional
- 6 themed stops pack Castle area, St Giles, the Royal Mile, and Canongate Kirk in one walk
A Private Royal Mile walk powered by oddball Edinburgh stories

You pay $130.75 per person for a 4 to 5 hour guided outdoor experience that stays focused on entertainment plus real historical flavor. Is it cheap? No. But it can be good value if you care about something more than a standard “look at this building” route. You are getting a guide who knows how to turn architecture, street layout, and old anecdotes into something you can actually picture.
I also like that this is a private tour/activity, meaning it is only your group. That matters on a walking tour. You can pause, ask, and take the time you need, instead of rushing to meet someone else’s pace.
One more practical detail: this experience runs in good weather and uses mobile tickets. It is also bookable well ahead, and it is often taken up early, so if you are set on a day, plan ahead rather than hoping to find space at the last minute.
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Castlehill and the Castle area: where the strange tales start
The walk begins just below the Castle at Castlehill (EH1), and right away you are in the part of Edinburgh where the city’s layers are obvious. Even before you dive into smaller lanes, the terrain and the street angles help you understand why stories spread the way they did, and why people once used hidden paths.
At the Castle area stop, you get a burst of colorful Old Town drama: tales of Bonnie Dundee’s escape from Edinburgh, Allan Ramsay’s court appeal, enormous gang fights, and water woes. That last one matters more than it sounds. Edinburgh’s stone streets and crowded living meant everyday problems could become big stories, fast.
This first stop also sets the tone. The tour is not pretending every odd event is a neat fact lesson. It is presenting Edinburgh as a place where rumor, comedy, and hard history all lived side by side.
What to watch for: the Castle area is uphill and uneven in places. Even though the tour is not described as extremely long, you will still want good walking shoes and the attitude that Edinburgh involves steps.
From the main street to the side lanes: pets, fake news, and political squabbles

After the initial Castle energy, you move into the spirit of Edinburgh’s street-level folklore. This part centers on the idea that Old Town life was packed with characters, not just monuments. You get tales of rebellious pets, couples at political loggerheads, and two-faced businessmen, plus some clever “how could that be true” style topics like philosopher-chefs and fake news.
I like that this section plays with cause-and-effect. In a city built on crowds and close living, gossip could travel like wildfire. A small dispute could become a public event. And a story that sounds silly at first can still tell you something real about people, power, and reputation.
If you like history but get bored with lectures, this works because it stays human. You are not just learning dates. You are learning how people argued, begged, joked, and survived.
Advocate’s Close: narrow streets, big mischief, and little-girl chaos
One of the best parts of this kind of Edinburgh walking is when you stop being on the big boulevard and start moving through the closes and tight passages that cut the Royal Mile world into smaller rooms.
At Advocate’s Close, you get a tight dose of mayhem: tales of lame, gangfighting would-be authors, astounded judges, and very mischievous little girls. The humor here is not random. It fits the physical space. In a cramped lane, you can easily imagine noisy disputes, quick meetings, and sudden embarrassment.
This is also a great moment to keep your eyes up and your ears open. Close layouts create echo, and sound used to matter in cities like this. Even today, it helps you understand why old stories were memorable.
Potential drawback: if you hate walking into narrow areas, this is still part of the core experience. The route is built around those side spaces.
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St Giles’ Cathedral stop: debt, spoons, thrown prayer-stools, and a famous preacher’s resting place

At St Giles’ Cathedral, the tour turns slightly more reflective, even while staying playful. You hear tales of kings in debt, romantic silver spoons, and the very specific image of church prayer-stools being thrown. That combination may sound like a sketch show, but it tells you something about how public life and private drama overlapped.
Then comes the memorable detail: an unusual resting place for our most famous preacher. This is the kind of fact that changes how you look at the building. Instead of seeing it as just a landmark, you start noticing how people moved through it, where they paused, and why certain figures mattered.
I also like that this stop balances comedy with a “why it mattered” feeling. In Edinburgh, a story about money, reputation, or public behavior could land in a major church site, because that is where power and community gathered.
What to expect: you will spend about 30 minutes here, so it is enough time to listen without turning into a long museum-style detour.
The Royal Mile itself: theatre riots, rebellion, and strange financial products

The tour spends about 1 hour on the Royal Mile, and it is the big stage where the side streets feel even more dramatic by comparison. This section leans into the theatrical and the political.
You hear about theatre riots, dull dances, raving beauties, and even novel financial products, then the stories widen to full-scale rebellion. It is easy to think of Old Town as decorative, but the Royal Mile stories push you to remember it was also a place where conflict could erupt quickly.
This is also where you get the “why Edinburgh feels like a book” effect. The Royal Mile is famous for being straight and visible. When your guide then pulls you into alleys and back courts, it shows the other truth: life happened off the main line.
Practical tip: bring a sense of flexibility. The Royal Mile is popular, and a walking tour can move slower if you pause often. If you are hoping to do lots of shopping during your afternoon, you might feel rushed. This is a story-first experience.
Canongate Kirk: poets, royal favorites, economists, and a name to ask about
Your route finishes at Canongate Kirk (EH8), along the lower Royal Mile. The final stop takes about 25 minutes, and it lands on some of the more pointed characters in Edinburgh’s drama.
The tales here include vicious poets, tragic Royal favourites, and eccentric economists. It is funny, but it also makes you think about how many different kinds of influence coexisted in the city, from art to court power to money people.
One useful extra detail from the guide’s own follow-up: there is mention of Rizzio’s grave by the Canongate Kirk, opposite a cafe. If you want to tack that on (and if time allows), it is worth asking your guide during the tour. That is exactly the kind of local add-on that turns a good story stop into a great memory.
How to make this 4-5 hour walk feel easy, not exhausting
This tour is designed as an outdoor walk, and that is part of the value. You are learning street logic by moving through it. To make it comfortable:
- Wear layers and expect changing weather.
- Bring water, since coffee or tea is not included, though there is an optional refreshment stop.
- Plan your day like you are going to spend time outdoors, not like you are just stepping between buildings.
- If you have mobility concerns, tell your guide early so the pace can work for your group.
Also, it’s private. That means you are not stuck in a rigid conveyor belt. In one experience with kids, the guide was described as moving at the group’s pace and staying accommodating. That tells you the hosting style is flexible.
Who should book Curious Tales of the Royal Mile
This is a smart pick if you are:
- Visiting for the first time and want Old Town to feel real fast
- The type who likes stories about people, not only stone and dates
- Traveling with kids and want an approach that can slow down without losing momentum
- Short on time but willing to trade a few “viewpoint photos” for close-up local anecdotes
It may be less ideal if you want a quiet, academic, inside-the-museum kind of tour. The charm here is the oddness and humor, not a strict textbook approach.
Should you book this tour?
I think you should book it if you want Edinburgh to feel like a living place with personality, not just an itinerary of famous sites. The best reason is the combination of Moray Grigor’s hosting and the route structure that keeps pulling you into closes and back courts, so the city’s weird stories land where they belong.
Before you decide, do one honest check: can you handle an outdoor walk for 4 to 5 hours in changing weather? If yes, this tour is a fun, high-satisfaction way to get your bearings on the Royal Mile and learn why the Old Town has always been full of drama.
FAQ
How long is the Curious Tales of the Royal Mile private walking tour?
The tour runs for about 4 to 5 hours.
Where does the tour start and end?
It starts at Castlehill, Edinburgh (EH1) and ends at Canongate Kirk, Edinburgh (EH8) on the lower Royal Mile.
Is this a private tour?
Yes. It is a private tour/activity, so only your group participates.
What is included in the price?
You get all guiding and commentary on the outdoor walking tour.
Is there a place to get coffee or tea?
Coffee and/or tea are not included, but there is an optional refreshment stop during the tour.
Is there a mobile ticket?
Yes. The tour includes a mobile ticket.
Does the tour run in bad weather?
The experience requires good weather. If it is canceled due to poor weather, you will be offered a different date or a full refund.
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